Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Shabbos Lips, Circa 2018

Makeup is an ever-evolving process. Technology advances. Options grow. Methods alter. 

F'instance, when I first tackled Shabbos Face, I asked a few stunningly-lipped women their products, and most shared the drugstore longwearing lipcolors, which have a liquid shade on one end and a moisturizing gloss on the other. 

The moisturizing gloss is needed because the longwear, if left alone, is extremely drying. The premise is that as the day goes on, one can slap on some more gloss as it wears off, while the color remains food-proof. 
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media/vc/981499b4-4445-43d3-9907-3993ffa95524._SL300__.png
But on Shabbos, that's not an option. So by morning, my lips were very unhappy indeed. Plus, by afternoon, the color would begin to flake off painfully, taking skin along for the ride while leaving uneven patchiness. 

I'm not keen on gloss, in any case.

I decided to experiment with matte lipsticks instead. I've always preferred mattes—Ma introduced me to them, and I've stayed loyal. I like the rich color, but depending on the brand, it too can get drying. During the week I would dab on some lip balm beforehand, but on Shabbos that would prevent staying power. 

The game changed for me when I discovered Smashbox Be Legendary Matte Lipsticks. These are technically matte, long-wearing, but they have a hint of satin which provides just enough comfort. 
https://i03.hsncdn.com/is/image/HomeShoppingNetwork/prodfull/smashbox-be-legendary-lipstick-stylist-matte-d-20160202155526287~468035_alt2.jpg
Now the method: 

(1) After brushing teeth, buff the bristles along the lips. 
https://www.wikihow.com/images/thumb/b/b4/Have-Longer-Lasting-Lipstick-Step-1.jpg/aid195897-v4-728px-Have-Longer-Lasting-Lipstick-Step-1.jpg
This removes dead skin, which: 
  • compromises the bond between lip and lipstick;
  • mattes tend to highlight flaky skin; and 
  • buffing will temporarily plump up the lips, allowing for the fullest possible application.  
Dab lips dry from any moisture.  

(2) Line lips with longwearing pencil. You are not going for the '90s look; this is about getting an accurate, full, and steady stencil for application. The pencil itself will get covered as well. I'm currently using one by Urban Decay
http://cdn2.stylecraze.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/lip-pencil-in-the-color.jpg
via Style Craze
(3) Arm yourself with a lip brush. I recommend stiff, synthetic bristles that will remain within the lines (I like the one by Revlon). Another perk is that the color really gets into the lip skin, making it last longer. 
https://amp.thisisinsider.com/images/5902227b429b33e8188b4577-750-562.jpg
via Insider
(4) I begin with my Smashbox in Electric Pink Matte (this shade is no longer available in Sephora, but it is on Ulta). I paint on a coat (covering the lip pencil outline too) blot with a thin tissue, apply a second coat, and blot. 
http://cdn.skim.gs/image/upload/v1456339607/msi/blot1_nrhjgq.jpg
  • Note: Blotting is very important. Each blot removes excess product, so it won't peel off in one piece later, and sets in the color more firmly. 
(5) Now on to a more typical matte lipstick, a Mac Matte Lipstick (there is also Retro Matte). I'm currently using a (sadly) discontinued shade, Silly. Two coats, two blots. 

(6) I top off with a Sephora Color Lip Last Lipstick. I find their finish can sometimes be patchy, so I use this last. I flip between a few of their pinks. Sometimes I blot the last coat, sometimes I don't.

If you are truly devoted to the makeup cause:  
  • Straws are your friends.
  • Be very, very careful with soup or oily foods. Oil will whisk that color right off. I learned from Ma since childhood how to contort my mouth in such a way to get food in without it touching my lips. 
  • Become very good at air-kissing. Although it's on so well a few pecks on my nephew's head doesn't do much damage.

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